Tuesday, June 22, 2021

 

Day 62 (21 Jun) – Wilcannia to Yass


We got up at daybreak again with the temperature at a brisk 1 degree Celsius.  Ice on the car so had to run the engine for a while to defrost the windscreen and annoy the other campers.  The sunrise was absolutely gorgeous through the fog.


The roads in western New South Wales are atrocious for a major highway.  Rough, bumpy and very hard to hang on to the steering wheel.  And that was for 100s of kilometres.  We had fuelled up yesterday at Port Augusta and had over half a tank at Wilcannia.  So I thought that will be heaps to do the 260km to Cobar when the trip computer said we had 456km of range.  We plugged in the GPS to Yass and it was going to take us south through Ivanhoe then east through Griffiths and Temora.  I looked at the distance through Cobar and Nyngan and it is 100km and an hour longer so off to Ivanhoe we went.  Got to the turnoff 20km out of Wilcannia and there was a sign saying the road is closed with a number for information.  Called it and, yes, the road is closed.  They’ve had a lot of rain out here, so I guess that highway is under water too.  So off to Cobar.

I was watching the fuel gauge and the trip computer as there is no fuel between Wilcannia and Cobar.  The fuel gauge was dropping quicker that I was comfortable with, and the trip computer was dropping even faster.  In the end we made it to Cobar and as we pulled into the service station, the low fuel light came on.  That was close.

Onwards to Nyngan.  We stopped there for a coffee and found the “Big Bogan”.  Nyngan is called Bogan Shire and the Bogan River flows through the town.  So, they made Big Bogan and set it in the middle of town.  Nigel No Friends found the Big Bogan a nice guy to talk to.


We thought about stopping at Parkes or Cowra today but then I thought we’re almost home and a short stint into the evening should be ok.  As darkness fell we were in Boorowa about 60km from Yass.  This was our worst stretch of road today.  It was at night and the road was full of trucks, semis, and cars coming the opposite direction.  It was just so straining and exhaustive on this winding road.  Should have stopped at Cowra.  Too late.  We’re now home.  Arrived about 6.30pm.  Of course, we were going to unpack in the morning, but Helen changed her mind and did it tonight, as well as a few loads of washing.  Glutton for punishment.


Took this picture the following morning of the filthy rig.  Lots of cleaning to come.


Here are some statistics from our 62-day trip:

Distance Travelled: 18,189km (11,302 miles)

Fuel Consumed: 3,736.9 litres (822 gallons)

Fuel Cost: $5,610

Average Fuel Consumption: 21.95 litres/100km (12.87 miles per gallon)

Tank Refills: 52

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s Musings

What an amazing trip we have had. The final leg from Wilcannia to home was quite interesting. The run from Wilcannia to Cobar had hundreds of goats along the way. They are actually smarter than kangaroos as they moved quickly away from the roadway whereas kangaroos can’t make up their minds and you have to be ever alert to them possibly hopping into the traffic.

We also saw a very large mob of emu. Usually, we have seen 1 or 2 but there were about 30 in the mob. Very interesting. The rest of the trip was long and the closer we got to Parkes I knew Michael would end up wanting to get straight home. Fortunately, I had 1 meal of lasagne left in the caravan freezer, so we were able to have it for dinner.

It is great to be home. So looking forward to catching up with everyone as I have really missed them all.

Complaint of the day

Michael – Way too many heavy vehicles on a fairly narrow country road.

Helen – I don’t have anything to complain about…..that is my complaint of the day.

Sunday, June 20, 2021

 

Day 60 (19 Jun) – Wirrulla to Peterborough

Last night we heard lots of trucks on the highway even though we were in the town and a good few hundred metres from the highway. Interesting how the previous night we were open to the highway and heard very little road noise.  And last night was the coldest we have encountered on this trip.  There was frost on the car this morning and the temp gauge when we left just after daylight said it was 2 degrees.  We had some problems with our little fan heater (until I discovered it was the extension cord) so we froze in the van.  I went outside in the cold and dark and took the cap off the LPG heater vent so we could get some heat going.

The scenery today was a bit better as we head further east.  We stopped at Kimba for fuel and to look for a coffee place that was recommended to us.  Nothing open.  It was 11.30 and the town was deserted except for the fuel station.  But we did see their silo art.


The last few days across the Nullarbor distance wise were:

Perth to Widgiemooltha – 631km

Widgiemooltha to Mundrabilla – 732km

Mundrabilla to Wirrulla – 649km

Wirrulla to Peterborough – 506km

So today was a relatively easy day.  The next few days will be roughly the same distance until we get home on Tuesday.  Coming towards Port Augusta the mountains appeared.  With the broken clouds this was very pretty.




After we left Port Augusta, we headed into the southern Flinders Ranges on our way to Peterborough.  Stunning scenery.


We had an interesting episode as we were heading up the range and on the steep narrow road when we were confronted with an oncoming road train loaded with hay on its way down and taking up half of our side of the road as well.  Pucker factor!!

On the other side the scenery flattened out and we had a good view of the valley.




We arrived at Peterborough about 3.00pm.  This place is also known as Steamtown as in the early 20th century it was the terminus for trains heading east/west and north/south.  They have a museum and a light show at night.  Last time we were here in 2018 we stayed and did the tourist things here.


Just the one night here and off to Wilcannia tomorrow (482km).

Day 61 (20 Jun) – Peterborough to Wilcannia

This was our view as we awoke this morning and went to get in the car.  Sunrise across the foggy paddocks.  Stunning.  Spectacular.  Gorgeous.  Beautiful.


The morning was really calm with patchy fog about.  These hill tops in the distance stuck up through the fog.


We stopped for breakfast at a deserted town on the east/west rail line called Manna Hill.  It just had an old railway station and a pub.  Even the Police Station was closed.



The road along the Barrier Highway is atrocious.  It’s bumpy, rough and dipped.  It also goes from widish stretches to barely wide enough to pass each other.  We met a road train on a bridge, and it was a bit hairy.  Seems the NSW Government is hell bent of building new freeways, bypass roads and tunnels in Sydney and doing nothing about our major interstate highways.  Enough whinging.

We are now in Wilcannia at a nice caravan park we have stayed at twice before – Warrawong on the Darling.  But this time it’s very much busier than previous stays.  Seems it’s got a reputation.  The one in town is dreadful and not very safe from thieves.  This one is a bit out of town.  Tomorrow we’ll see how far we get towards home.  Depends on how far I can drive in a day.  It’s about 800 odd kilometres.

Complaint of the day

Michael – “Why is it that cars and caravans driving through KMs of nothingness don’t arm themselves with a CB for safety and communication with the road trains etc?”

 

Friday, June 18, 2021

 

Day 55 (14 Jun) - Perth

We had a fun night last night with Stephen and Debbie catching up on things. Steve and Debbie took us out to dinner at a local brewery and restaurant that makes its own boutique beer.  The meal of the day was Sunday Roast Pork.  Just like a home cooked meal and very delicious.

Today Helen and I were dropped off in the city by Stephen on his way to meet a client, so we had a couple of hours to check out the town.  We walked through London Arcade which is very quaint with tiny shops each side of the arcade.



We then got on the free Central Area Transit (CAT) bus and did the sights of the city from the bus window.  It was raining so we were nice and comfortable in the bus.  We got off the bus near the Town Hall and walked in for a look.  It had been renovated in 2014 and took as long to renovate as it did originally to build.  Stunning work.  We were able to walk into some areas but not the council chambers.


In the foyer there is a memorial to HMAS Perth that was sunk in the battle of the Sunda Straits on 1 March 1941 along with the USS Houston.  There is a model of the ship and the ship’s bell which were given to the City of Perth on long term loan.




This is where we are now.  About a third of the way around the country on our trip.  From Perth it will be just driving to get home.  Not much sightseeing as we’ve done this leg before.


Day 56 (15 Jun) – Perth

Today we went for a drive into the Swan Valley which is just full of wineries.  The big thing now is distilleries popping up making boutique Vodka and Gin.  We dropped into Old Young’s Distillery to try a brew that Steven and Debbie had, called Pavlova Vodka.  They thought it was Gin but in fact it’s Vodka.  The guy behind the bar wouldn’t let us taste it until we watched hisi show and sampled all the products.  Bummer.  What a bugger!  It was a hoot.  The guy was very funny telling his stories and we (especially me) had a few samples.

Then it was on to the Mondo Nougat and Morish Nuts place.  Of course, we had to have coffee, a snack (apple crumble and cheesecakes), and buy some products.


That night Steve and Debbie took us to an Italian Restaurant on the Swan River tributary.  What a stunning location.  Steve’s son Max and his girlfriend came along and we had a great night out.









Day 57 (16 Jun) – Perth to Widgiemooltha

Today we got up early to get out of the city before the traffic got too heavy.  We left just after 7.00am and had a decent run out of Perth.  This was a long drive today as we are heading to the Nullarbor, and I wanted to get some distance behind us so we can manage our stopovers in the middle of the Nullarbor.  We made it to a place called Widgiemooltha which is between Kalgoorlie and Norseman.  Norseman is the start of the Nullarbor, and we are about an hours drive from there.  This place is just a roadhouse on the edge of the highway and by chance they are doing major roadworks on this stretch of road.  And some of the workers are staying here.  To say it’s “rustic” is an understatement.  We’re just propped here next to the highway, hooked up to water and power.  We’re stuck in a position where we have to reverse out because someone in the roadhouse gave the drive through site to a camper trailer.  Oh well.  I can reverse this rig.





This is where we are tonight – Widgiemooltha.


Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s Musings

As I type this there are many trucks roaring past and the positive is that we are just far enough away from the highway that we don’t feel the vibration from the trucks…...just the noise!!  Ah the serenity.

When we were getting fuel at Merredin there were about 40 black cockatoos flying over (noisily of course). I have only previously seen 4 near home so it was a real treat. Also, there was a very polite emu who stopped on the side of the road so we could continue along. Very road savvy.

Day 58 (17 Jun) – Widgiemooltha to Mundrabilla

It was a broken sleep last night with the trucks barrelling past all night.  Got up about 6.45 when the workers started to make a noise and we were on the road at dawn about 7.15am.  Fuelled up at Norseman which is the start of the Nullarbor Plains and headed east.  Weather was very chilly and some sun shone through the clouds.  And we saw a rainbow.  Neat.



Nothing exciting on this leg.  We were planning on driving to Eucla which is about 800km or so but that was dependant on the daylight as we go further east.

Later in the day we stopped at Mandura for fuel but were greeted with no service as the roadhouse shut at 3.00pm. What is this!!!  This is an isolate road with about 200km between anything!!!  Helen went to the motel reception and found a guy who came out and started the pumps for us.  This is looking down the hill coming in to Mandura.


Onwards to Eucla but the light was fast fading and kangaroos are out at this time of night.  Stopped at Mundrabilla about 70km short of Eucla just as it was getting dark.  The caravan park has no power, no water, but we are welcome to stay anywhere we like.  Not much choice so we took his offer.  Nice young guy so we had dinner in the roadhouse.  He and his wife are running the place and have had a hard time with Covid and the lack of traffic.  So, we were only too happy to support him by buying a meal and a Mundrabilla Roadhouse jacket for me.


Back to the caravan.  When we set up, we had trouble getting the LPG heater to stay lit.  It kept going out.  But this time it started, and we are now nice and toasty inside.  Ceduna tomorrow.  We have a South Australia Border Pass so hopefully all will go well.

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s Musings

Although we have no power or water, we were given the key to be able to use the truckie’s shower. Very little pressure but at least we are now clean. Although this road is quite iconic and in excellent condition it is very boring in an interesting sort of way. The vegetation is low mainly but there are some beautiful gums that have shiny red trunks. They are called salmon Gums. That makes it interesting but boring as the stretches are so long between places to stop. Looking forward to seeing the Great Australian Bight tomorrow. I heard there have been whales and their calves so hopefully we might be lucky.

Complaint of the day

Michael – “A closed roadhouse fuel station on the major east west highway in the country. Ridiculous!”

Helen - There was no pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Day 59 (18 Jun) – Mundrabilla to Wirrulla

We awoke before daybreak.  Last night the guy in the roadhouse said they have the world’s best sunrise.  We got to see it and it was rather nice.  This place was relatively quiet last night even though a couple of road trains were parked out front as we drove out.  Bit more rain over night so it was a bit muddy.



We are now closer to the Great Australian Bight and there are a few lookouts with stunning views of the Southern Ocean.  We stopped at one for breakfast.



Fuel gets dearer as you go across the Nullarbor with Nullarbor Roadhouse being the most expensive.  We have enough fuel having filled up at Eucla ($1.80 a litre) so luckily.  We did stop for a break and a cuppa though.


This is the Nullarbor Plains proper and there is nothing of interest.  The most horrible thought would be to break down out here.  There are no repair shops or tow truck facilities, so any rescue would cost a fortune.


As we went further east the plains disappeared and we got to see a few trees, but with big long straight stretches of road.


The original plan was to stop at Ceduna but we had a good 2 hours of daylight left so drove on and stopped at a little town called Wirrulla.  The Wikicamps reviews on my phone app said this place was lovely with water, power and showers for $15.  Well, there’s no water hook-up but there is power.  And the showers are clean and nice.  But you have to get the key from either the General Store or the pub across the road.  So here we are for the night.  This was the sight of an old basketball court.  Still, it’s very level and we’re out of here at daybreak again.



Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s Musings

Along the way this morning as the sun was rising higher in the sky the clouds were skipping across the sun and there were ‘rainbows’ in the clouds. Nothing connecting the ground. The colours were lovely with a sunset look about the sun although it was midmorning. I tried to take some photos, but the colours did not turn out. Pity as it is the first time I have seen that type of colour spectrum in the sky and clouds.

Complaint of the day

Michael – “Road work signs left out directing cars to go 80 then 60 when there was no work being done for 40km either side of Ceduna!!!!”

Helen – Michael spent quite a bit of time filling in the SA pass which we were told we had to have and there were lots of questions. One for me and one for him. When we got to the SA border where we had to have a fruit and vegetable quarantine inspection nothing was asked of us re the pass, and we went quickly through. Why have it as a mandatory thing and then not police it?????