Day 10 (30 Apr) – Winton to Cloncurry

Last night, the sunset was gorgeous again and we had Happy Hour around the camp with most campers gathering to have a chat and a few drinks.  Very pleasant.

This morning Dave and Trina next to us left before we did and were heading to Cloncurry same as us.  I took a snap as they drove out just to drool again over his caravan.

Today is a relatively short drive of about 300km before the big days to follow.  The road north was very boring and mostly flat, but a few “bumps” appeared on the horizon.  Nice little jumpups. 

We met up with Dave and Trina at McKinley on the veranda of the Walkabout Creek Hotel from the film Crocodile Dundee.  It’s the actual pub from the movie but not in the actual location.  They moved it to the main road to catch the passing tourists – yes; Us.  Had a beer, which was nice and cold on this hot day, and took a few happy snaps.

We checked into the caravan park at Cloncurry and then did some shopping, fuelled up, and took in the sights.  There is a lake outside town called Chinaman’s Creek lake, but the road was blocked because they are filming the next series of “Survivor”.  We could see it from the nearby lookout but couldn’t see any of the activity or sets.  The water tank on top of the lookout had been painted with an impressive artwork.

On the way back to camp we stopped at the Visitors’ Centre – the sight of the infamous green tree frogs in the toilet bowl from our previous trip to Darwin and around the east coast.  Helen had to go in to see if they were still there.  No sign of them.

That evening we sat around with Dave and Trina talking well into the night, skipping dinner, and closing about 11.00pm.  The park is mostly accommodation for itinerant mine workers with a few sites for caravans.  Opposite us was the camp kitchen and a group of the miner workers gathered and had a music jam session for a few hours.  Very entertaining evening as we talked.

Day 11 (1 May) – Cloncurry to Barkly Homestead.

Cloncurry to Mount Isa is about an hour’s drive through some very scenic ranges and with spectacular colours.  We passed the site of the old Mary Kathleen uranium mine which we visited last time.  Still amazes me how they convinced all those Brits to come out to this desolate place to work the mine.

Coming into Mount Isa we drove over a hill and suddenly the town appeared.

We stopped outside town and had a cuppa before continuing across the treeless Barkly Tablelands to Barkly Homestead which is our planned stop for the night.  A long drive of 600km.

We pulled up about halfway between Mt Isa and Barkly homestead at a rest stop.  We had stopped here on our previous trip and it amazed me how this place with no town has a Police Station opposite the rest stop.  What or who does he police out here?

We arrived at Barkly Homestead about 3.30pm and checked in to the van park and fuelled up again.  This is such a lovely oasis, red dirt and all, in the middle of desert country.

The next two days will be long again.  Each of about 600km.  I called Daly Waters to make a booking, but they don’t take booking and it’s a first in basis.  The girl told me that are having a local Rodeo and Campdraft this weekend so be prepared for some noise.  The event finishes tomorrow so most participants will be gone, but some will remain for another night.  Lucky us.

So this is where we are today at Barkly Homestead.  It’s actually just a roadhouse – not a homestead in the real sense of cattle stations.

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s Musings

I went to Cloncurry State School yesterday and gave them the other half of the Woolies animal cards and Ooshies. They were delighted and said that they were starting a rewards program at the school and these would be used for the rewards. Great feedback.

 A great highlight was spending time getting to know David and Trina and finding out that Trina is a quilter. She showed me pictures of some of her beautiful quilting pieces and I finally found someone who had read my favourite books by Jennifer Chiaverini. Bonus.

Today was boring and interesting at the same time (that does not seem possible, but it was). The landscape with all its flatness and rocky outcrops with the variety of tones of similar colours was interesting but the drive was long…. that was the boring bit.

Day 12 (2 May ) – Barkly Homestead to Daly Waters

Left early this morning about 7.30am.  Did the necessary emptying of the ablutions department and took a couple of pics of the front of the Homestead (Roadhouse) on the way out.

We were cruising along and a group of about 10 bikies on Harley’s passed us.  They waved as they went by.  Nice sound those Harley’s.  Some distance up the road they had stopped for a break so we gave a honk and a wave as we went past.  We got to Three Ways on the Stuart Highway to Darwin and fuelled up and had breakfast.  Then the bikies arrived.  I went over and spoke to them and they are heading to Daly Waters for the night as are we, so I said we’ll meet you in the bar.  One commented “We’ll DEFINITELY be in the bar”.  Who would have thought.  Bikies not drinking!!

Inside the roadhouse was a Cobra (the car).  Probably a replica but nice all the same.  Out front was a parked road train.  Bloody huge things.  I’d hate to have to change a tyre.  And roping down that load would have been a nightmare.

We drove straight on to Daly Waters a distance of about 400km non stop (except for a wee wee break).  Lots of termite mounds alongside the road.  And the driver was doing an exceptional job too!!!!!  The outside temperature is climbing as, I expect, is the humidity.

Arrived at Daly Waters at about 1.45pm.  Earlier than expected. 

This place is jumping with the Rodeo and Campdraft people.  There is a rig here in the Campdraft chorale that is a B-double truck for horses and accommodation.  It has the name of a family cattle station from Alice Springs on its door.  Must be money in cattle and horses. 

Bloody hot and dusty with all the horse work so back to the pub for a beer.  They have lots of quaint stuff in the pub and a shoe/thong tree outside.

We were having a coldy in the pub when the bikies turned up.  They drew a lot of attention.  By “bikies” I mean old farts on motorbikes.  Long hair and beards wearing leather jackets.  Not a gang, just mates travelling.

Tonight we are having Barramundi and steak on the BBQ at the pub.  Most of the Campdraft people are expected to be gone but it could still be busy in the pub as the park is quite full.

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s Musings

The bikies were at Barkly Homestead last night and I went for a wander around the park and stopped and chatted to some of the guys. Beautiful bikes.

Today it was a lovely surprise to see the Rodeo and campdraft still in progress when we got here. The horses are so clever and of course as are the riders. The highlight was watching the bull dogging (I think that is what it is called). The first painting Michael and I ever purchased was an oil painting which we bought in 1974 of exactly that. Great to see it for real. A great day even though it was a long drive.

Addendum to Today

Last night was an absolute hoot.  We had our Beef and Barra dinner, which was very yummy, with a couple of drinks.  Helen had her standard Coke No Sugar and I had a few pints of beer.  The bikies sat just near us and, of course, Helen had to have another chat.  They reckon she was stalking them as they saw us at Cloncurry, then at Barkly Homestead where Helen first struck up a chat, and then here at Daly Waters.  The entertainment was officially the group “Jen and Tonic”, but one of the bikies got up and did a solo dance.  I think next morning he would be asking himself “why did I do that?”  There was also a couple doing Rock and Roll dancing and they were very good.  Plus a couple of oldies doing ballroom style dancing.  The entertainment stopped at 9pm and surprisingly the camp went to bed and was quiet all night.

Day 13 (3 May) – Daly Waters to Darwin

Up early this morning, woken by the lady next door coughing her lungs up at 5.30am.  She’s a smoker and was sitting outside her caravan when we arrived, puffing on a cigarette.  It was one of those gurgling coughs.  Very unpleasant to listen to.  The campdraft people also woke the camp up with their huge trucks leaving and kicking up lots of dust which hung over the camp in the still morning air.

We drove about an hour up the highway to Larrimah where we stopped for a break and had breakfast.

This road is full of road trains.  And these beasts are huge and blow you off the road.  One passed us on a passing lane and then passed another road train.  Road train vs road train.

We stopped at Adelaide River for fuel and intended to have a look at the War Graves Cemetery.  Signage was terrible and with all the cars pulled up for fuel and a break, we decided to see if we could find it on our way back after doing The Ghan.  We arrived in Darwin at about 4pm and checked in to the caravan park we had stayed at once before – directly opposite the airport.  Our introduction to the aircraft noise came as soon as we parked – a US Marines V-22 Osprey took off.  Those big propellors make a lot of thumping noise.

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s musings

When we were here in Darwin in 2016 (we think) we stayed in this caravan park straight after a large cyclone came through. It’s great to see it now looking so lush and green. Last time it was very loud being next to the airport so of course Michael felt the need to book us here again…..go figure.

And this is where we are tonight.