Day 25 (15 May) – Lake Argyle to Bungle Bungles

Sad to leave Lake Argyle this morning.  It was just fantastic there.  We topped up with fuel, and filled the jerry can, at Kununurra as I’m not sure about fuel supplies with us going into the Bungle Bungles where there is no fuel.  On the way out we crossed the Ord River diversion dam that holds back the water from lake Argyle to ensure all year round flow to the farms downstream.

Continuing on over the vast nothingness, we detoured into Wyndham and past the easterly end of the iconic Gibb River Road.  Would like to have driven some of it but we were running out of time for that today.

We arrived at Wyndham and were very disappointed we couldn’t drive up to the Five Rivers Lookout on top of the escarpment.  The sign said “No Caravans” and we weren’t about to disconnect it and leave it unsecured.  Things tend to disappear in these parts if left unattended.  So back for a tour of Wyndham.  What a rundown town this is.  Not much sign of life and lots of abandoned buildings.  We took the obligatory picture of the Afghan Cameleers memorial and the Big Crocodile.

We then drove on the Port of Wyndham where all the supplies and equipment were offloaded for the Ord River Scheme.  It was like a ghost town.  Places had signs with “Authorised Vehicles Only” but nothing happening.  We walked out onto the pier and watched the very fast flowing river beneath us.  It wasn’t a nice clean water flow but very very muddy.

The bright part of the day visit to Wyndham was stopping at the Croc Café and Bakery.  It’s a small enterprise run by an elderly lady and she makes the best cream and jam filled donuts I have tasted.  After washing it down with a cup of coffee, we headed back along the road to the Great Northern Highway and turned towards the Bungle Bungles.  We stopped to top up with fuel again at Doon Doon where they had an amusing sign on the pumps.

Continuing on the boring stretch to Bungle Bungles there were a few interesting rock formations before we arrived at the campground and set up for the next couple of days.

Well, here we are as shown on the map below.  So far we have driven from Yass through Brisbane to Darwin, hopped on The Ghan to Adelaide, flew back to Darwin and then picked up the caravan again to head around the west coast.  We are about a third of the way into our trip with lots more interesting places to visit.

Tomorrow we will drive the 53km 4WD track into the Bungle Bungles themselves and checkout these magnificent formations.

Day 26 (16 May) – Bungle Bungles

Last night I deflated the Cruiser tyres from a highway pressure of 40psi to a corrugated track pressure of 26psi.  This morning we tackled those corrugations and water crossings of the Bungle Bungles Track into Purnulu National Park.  There are a lot of reports on the internet about this track ranging from “not bad” to “downright awful”.  The track and caravan park are on Mabel Downs Station, a huge cattle station.  They obviously saw the potential of this caravan park as there is nothing for over 100km nearby.  The track into the National Park is certainly a rough track and 4WD high clearance is needed to tackle the creeks.  In the 2 hours it took us to drive the 53km to the National Park we drove through 17 creeks with water in them with 2 of those where the water came up to the side steps on the Cruiser.  Lots of dust too.  The scenery is just stunning even before we came across the Bungle Bungles themselves.  So I’ll just post photos of our drive into the Park from the caravan park first.

Once in the Park the roads improved a little.  The scenery was gorgeous as we drove on to Echidna Chasm.  The lady in the Visitor Centre suggested we go here first as around 11:20am is the best time to see the sun streaming in through the Chasm ceiling.  The walk was rocky and very difficult, even with my walking stick to help.  Helen beavered on with no walking sticks and did exceptionally well navigating the rough terrain.  The scenery is too wonderful to fully describe and even pictures will never do it justice.

At the beginning of the walk to the Echnida Chasm is a short walk up to Osmand Lookout. Just a short walk but like most lookouts, uphill. Helen did that and had a good view of the Osmand Range.

The next part of the day was spent travelling to the south end of the Bungle Bungles to see the Domes (often referred to as the beehives) and Cathedral Gorge. It was a difficult walk in over rocky creek beds. sandy areas and rock steps both up and down. I was absolutely exhausted and was not sure I was going to make it. but I did. Although very sore I was very glad I battled on as it was fantastic and worth the pain.

The Last Photo Before Death

Next. Back to the caravan park. Through the 17 water crossings and dodging the cows.

Before dark, it was pumping the tyres back up ready for the exit out tomorrow morning.  Then off to the bar and bbq for a beer and dinner.

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s musings

I don’t have enough time and I could not do justice to the amazing work of nature to list them all. The photos tell it all.

One thing I found disturbing was the sight of TOADS in the Bungle Bungles. As we came down a ladder that connected 2 areas along the path into the Cathedral Gorge we wondered what the unpleasant smell was and when we looked down there was a large rock hole in the dry river bed and there were about 40 toads. They could not get out and were breeding undisturbed.

I have decided however to add another section to my musings and it is called; ‘Drum Roll’ -

Complaint of the day

Michael – ‘Bloody ****ing cars are passing too fast on dirt and stony roads and they should be more courteous as they are showering us with rocks and dust.’

Helen – Husbands who complain loudly, often and with lots of expletives ‘Bloody ****ing cars are passing too fast on dirt and stony roads and they should be more courteous as they are showering us with rocks and dust.’

Day 27 (17 May) – Bungle Bungles to Fitzroy Crossing

It was up early today as we went to bed early (8pm).  And the sunrise here is 5.15am.  So we were on the road about 7.30am and drove the 120km to Halls Creek.  The only reason to stop there is to refuel as Halls Creek is a known crime trouble spot.  When we arrived, we saw buildings boarded up and lots of security wire around those that were open.  Not much in the town other than a supermarket with heavy security barriers.  Sad that that level of security is needed. Having refuelled at a self-serve pump (encased in security wire), we headed off to Fitzroy Crossing.  About 100km further on we came across this gorgeous roadside rest stop and campsite called Mary’s Pool.  It’s alongside the Mary River and about 500m off the highway.  There were already a few campers (and cows) when we stopped for morning tea.  We walked down to the river and walked over the old river crossing that is now closed to vehicles.  Sunning himself on a rock was a Lace Monitor (a type of Goanna).  Just a very pleasant place in this desolate part of the country.

Then it was off to Fitzroy Crossing.  Some very flat and boring scenery on this stretch peppered by some Mesa type Jumpups.

We arrived at Fitzroy Crossing about 1.00pm and booked into the Fitzroy Crossing Lodge.  Very nice campsites with plenty of room and nice shady trees.

We did a quick drive to the Visitor Centre to book an evening cruise along the Giekie Gorge for tomorrow.  Then after doing the obligatory clothes washing, we drove into the National Park to see where we will be boarding the boat.  Final act for today was to mail a postcard and to fuel up.  We thought Halls Creek was bad for heavy security.  This town takes the cake.  There is no Post Office open here that we could find.  The destroyed sign is visible and post boxes are there but no manned Post Office.  The mailbox outside what we think was the post office had graffiti all over it and no signs to show that it was in use. The fuel station was covered in security gates and heavy wire.  There was a police notice at the pumps advising you to lock your car when you go into pay. When I went in to pay, the counter staff are also behind security wires and Perspex screens.  It was a real shock.  Luckily, we are a few kilometres out of town in a secure (we hope) campground as part of the Fitzroy River Lodge.  Lock everything up tonight is what we have been advised to do.

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s musings

Although it appeared that we were in for a long boring flat drive it was not that at all. The highlight was the ever-changing landscape from the flat to the almost explosive type of rock formations.

Complaint of the day

Michael – “Fancy having a Visitors Centre in a town and not being able to book tourist activities through them. Told to do it online yet we don’t have service.”

Helen - Not being able to post the postcard to our mate Don in USA.

Day 28 (18 May) – Fitzroy Crossing

Last night was a bit chilly – for this area anyway.  We had to put on a light jumper over our T-shirt and shorts (bummer).  Did an easy morning driving around to see the old Fitzroy Crossing Inn.  The old crossing over the Fitzroy River is still there but it would have been a challenge driving over it and when the river was in flood, impossible to cross.  The old Inn is still there but now used as a hotel and accommodation.  It’s very run down, and the buildings are in bad need of repair.  But the interesting building was the Can Shed Movie Theatre.  The gardens of the Inn are quite beautiful.

We came back to the caravan park and had lunch at the Lodge.  Very nice but expensive.  After a rest and a blog update, we went to Geikie Gorge for a late afternoon cruise on the Fitzroy River.  Just spectacular in the late afternoon light.  Freshwater crocs sunning themselves on the banks too.

This was the only thing you could say is good about this town.  The rest of it is just sad.

Helen’s Highlights/Minnie’s musings

Geikie Gorge was beautiful as per the photos. The nests of the Fairy martins were really interesting and looked just like large wasp nests. There are quite a few of them attached to the walls at the amenities building here at the caravan park.

Last night I shared my shower with a large green frog. It did not move off the wall- fortunately. Green frogs and I have a history together. The ones in the toilet at Cloncurry during a previous trip and now in the shower here………... a connection with naked skin and frogs!!!!!!!!

Complaint of the day

Michael – “ I hate it when you drop the soap in the shower and it skids into the next cubicle and you have to get it, making sure no one sees your nakedness.”

Helen – I had to put a cardigan on this morning as it was a bit chilly but it came off by about 9am.